10 tips for sewing with faux fur

Check the nap direction before cutting

The nap direction is the direction the fur fibres lie, and it has a big impact on the finished result. If the pattern pieces are placed in different directions, the light will catch the fur differently, making the colour and texture appear uneven.

Always place all pattern pieces so the fur fibres run in the same direction, usually downwards. It can be helpful to trace your pattern pieces with a heat-erasable fabric pen, making it easier to keep track of your markings while cutting.

Cut from the back to preserve the fur

When cutting faux fur, it's important to cut only through the backing fabric. This keeps the long fibres intact along the edges, giving your seams a neater and more natural finish.

Many people prefer using a craft knife or scalpel, but a pair of small scissors can be just as precise. The most important thing is to keep the blade beneath the fur fibres so you don't cut through them.

You'll also reduce the amount of loose fibres, making the clean-up afterwards a little easier.

Choose the right needle and stitch length

The right needle and stitch length make sewing easier and help you achieve a better finish. For most types of faux fur, a size 90 universal needle is a great choice. If the faux fur is particularly thick or has a heavy backing, choose a size 90 or size 100 jeans needle instead.

At the same time, choose a stitch length of around 3–4 mm. A slightly longer stitch usually gives a neater seam while allowing the fabric to keep its soft, natural drape.

Choose a strong sewing thread

A good sewing thread helps ensure a durable finish. For faux fur, a polyester sewing thread is an excellent choice, as it's strong and well suited for garments, soft toys and home décor projects.

Keep the layers in place

Faux fur can easily shift while you're sewing. Use Wonder Clips or long pins to hold the layers together as you sew.

Wonder Clips are especially useful because they hold the fabric securely without disappearing into the thick pile. If you prefer using pins, long pins are easier to see and handle.

Keep the fur fibres out of the seams

When sewing with faux fur, the long fibres can easily get caught in the seam. Before you sew, gently brush the fibres away from the seam line using your fingers or a pair of tweezers.

If any fibres do get caught in the seam, carefully pull them free with a darning needle or a pair of tweezers. This creates a neater finish and makes the seam less visible.

Press with care

Faux fur doesn't tolerate high heat in the same way as many other fabrics. If you need to press the seams, use a low heat setting, a pressing cloth, and press from the wrong side.

In many cases, finger pressing the seam is all you need. It's gentler on the faux fur and helps preserve its soft, luxurious look.

Reinforce high-stress areas

Fastenings such as press studs, buttons and safety eyes will hold more securely if you reinforce the area on the wrong side with a small piece of woven fabric or interfacing. This distributes the strain and creates a more durable finish.

Add the finishing touches

If you're sewing a waistcoat, jacket or other garment, a smooth lining can make a big difference. It makes the garment easier to put on and take off, protects the seams and gives your project a professional finish.

Once you've finished your project, give it a good shake outdoors or over a bin bag to remove any loose fibres left from cutting and sewing.

Finish by gently brushing the faux fur or use a hairdryer on the cool setting to lift the fibres. This gives the faux fur a soft, full appearance.