SIZE GUIDE

How to Choose the Right Size for Sewing Patterns

Want to avoid spending hours on a sewing project that doesn't end up fitting?

On this page, we'll guide you through choosing the right size in sewing patterns, so your garment fits from the start.

Avoid Sewing Clothes That Don't Fit

ALWAYS MEASURE BEFORE YOU SEW

There is little more discouraging than spending hours on a beautiful sewing project in the loveliest fabric, only to find that the finished garment doesn't fit.

Clothing Sizes and Sewing Patterns Don't Always Match

Sizes in sewing patterns and standard clothing sizes are often not the same. That's why you can't assume that the size you normally buy in stores will also be the right size when sewing your own clothes. There can be significant differences between patterns and brands, and the fit of each individual pattern also plays an important role.

Why It's Important to Measure First

Your body measurements are the most reliable starting point. Always compare them with the measurements provided in the individual sewing pattern – even if you've sewn garments before.

Read On – We'll Guide You Every Step of the Way

On this page, we'll walk you through the most important factors to consider when assessing size, fit and fabric choice. Our goal is to help you create a sewing project that suits both your body and the fabric you've chosen.

How to Take Your Body Measurements

Watch the video for step-by-step guidance on how to measure yourself correctly. All you need is a measuring tape, and it only takes a few minutes to take your measurements.

Use the Body Measurement Chart

Compare your measurements with the body measurement chart provided with the sewing pattern.
This will help you choose the right size and give you a better starting point for achieving a good fit.

Our sewing patterns are designed for a standard height of 168–174 cm (5'6"–5'9"), so even if the width fits, you may need to adjust the length.
This is completely normal and part of the process.

Different Designs Have Different Finished Garment Measurements

When choosing a size in a sewing pattern, the design affects how close-fitting or loose the garment is intended to be. Some designs are fitted, while others are designed with a more relaxed fit.

On the front page of the sewing instructions, you can find the finished garment measurements for the specific design. The same measurements are also available on the product page of the pattern on our website. The finished garment measurements show how much ease is built into the garment.

At Selfmade®, we work with three different fit categories to help you assess how fitted or loose the design is intended to be.

Fitted styles are designed to sit close to the body and follow its shape. These garments have only a small amount of ease built into the pattern.

Tops are typically around 4–10 cm larger at the bust than your body measurement. Bottoms are around 0–2 cm larger at the hip.

Regular styles offer a more relaxed fit with extra room for movement, without appearing loose.

Tops are typically around 12–15 cm larger at the bust than your body measurement. Bottoms are around 3–6 cm larger at the hip.

Loose styles are roomy and designed to drape loosely on the body.

Tops are typically around 17 cm or more larger at the bust than your body measurement. Bottoms are typically around 7 cm larger at the hip.

Which Measurement Should You Use to Choose Your Size?

Now that you know the difference between the three fit categories, the next step is choosing your size based on your body measurements. Which measurement to use depends on the type of garment you're making and where the design is most fitted.

Tops

For tops, blouses and shirts, your bust measurement determines the size you should choose.

If your hip measurement is larger than your bust measurement, you can often add extra width at the hips without changing the size of the upper garment.

If you would like to make the garment approximately one size larger at the hips, you can add around 1 cm to each side seam, giving a total of approximately 4 cm. Adjust more or less as needed.

Skirts and Trousers

If the skirt is fitted at the hips, choose your size based on your hip measurement. If it is loose at the hips, A-line, or has an elasticated waistband, choose your size based on your waist measurement.

For trousers, the hip measurement will most often determine the size you should choose. The cut of the garment then determines the fit.

Dresses

For dresses, choose your size based on the area where the dress is most fitted. Use your bust measurement if the bodice is fitted, and your hip measurement if the skirt section is fitted. If the dress has a loose silhouette, choose your size based on your bust measurement.

If your hip measurement is larger than your bust measurement, you can also add extra width at the hips. To make the dress approximately one size larger, add around 1 cm to each side seam, giving a total of approximately 4 cm. Adjust according to the fit you want to achieve.

Between Two Sizes?

If the design is fitted, choose the larger size. If the design has a regular or loose fit, you can choose the smaller size for a more fitted look or the larger size for extra ease.

It can also be helpful to compare the finished garment measurements with clothes you already own and like the fit of.

Anja Dam Harden


Anja Dam Harden

With many years of experience as a pattern maker at Selfmade and as a pattern design instructor, she shares her best tips with you.

How Fabric Affects Fit

When you sew your own clothes, you have the freedom to choose the fabric for your project.

However, it's important to remember that not all fabrics behave the same way.

The properties of the fabric have a significant impact on which size or fit you should choose and on how the finished garment will fit and drape.

Always consider the fit, finished garment measurements and recommended fabric before choosing a size. This will give you the best starting point for a successful result.

Stretch Fabrics

Stretch fabrics such as jersey are elastic and stretch when the garment is worn.

Important to Know About Stretch and Measurements

For fitted designs made in stretch fabrics, the finished garment measurements may be smaller than your body measurements. This is intentional and ensures that the garment fits closely and correctly.

Sewing Patterns for Stretch Fabrics

Some sewing patterns are specifically designed for stretch fabrics. In these cases, the fit has already been adjusted to account for the fabric's elasticity. We therefore recommend choosing your size based on the body measurement chart and your own body measurements.

Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics without stretch do not give when worn. As a result, garments often need a little more ease to be comfortable.

Some woven fabrics contain elastane and therefore offer a small amount of stretch.

Woven Fabrics Feel More Fitted

Completely non-stretch woven fabrics will feel more fitted than the same design sewn in a fabric with stretch.

In some cases, you may need to choose a larger size than you normally would. Alternatively, you can choose a design with a looser fit.

Sewing Patterns for Woven Fabrics

Always choose a sewing pattern intended for woven fabrics. A pattern designed for stretch fabrics will often fit too tightly and may be difficult to put on and take off.

Heavyweight Fabrics

Heavier fabrics such as denim, corduroy, canvas or wool have more structure and drape differently from lightweight fabrics. This can make the garment feel stiffer and fit more closely to the body.

For this reason, it is often beneficial to allow a little extra ease or choose a looser-fitting design. If you are sewing with a heavier fabric than the one recommended for the pattern, you may need to select a larger size to maintain the intended fit.

You can find our fabric recommendations in the sewing instructions for each individual pattern.

Sizes Vary Between Different Sewing Pattern Brands

Some sewing pattern brands run large, while others run small. As a result, there can be significant differences in sizing from one brand to another, even if you choose the same clothing size.

That's why it's important to always take your measurements and use the measurement chart provided with each individual sewing pattern. It is the only reliable way to choose the correct size and avoid ending up with a finished sewing project that doesn't fit.

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