Pattern alteration

Our patterns are designed using the following standard height ranges:

  • Women: 168-176 cm
  • Men: 181–185 cm

Check the length measurements against your own measurements, so that you can lengthen or shorten the pattern accordingly. 

Figure 1

1: Bust

2: Waist

3: Hip

4: Inseam

5: Height (centilong)

Sleeve length

The sleeve length is significant for coats and designs with cuffs or zips at the wrist. If you are unsure whether the length is correct, we advise you to use your vlies pattern piece and check the length. If the vlies pattern piece does not fit, add or remove a horizontal section in the middle of the sleeve.

 

Jacket or shirt length

The length of a jacket or shirt greatly determines the overall look of your design. After determining the desired length, you can adjust the pattern by lengthening or shortening it at the waist. If you adjust the length of the jacket or shirt, it will likely also be necessary to adjust the position of the pockets.

 

Dress length

The dress length can be altered at the hem or the waist, depending on whether the adjustment is needed to the torso or leg length.

 

Inseam

Check against your own measurements. The length is measured from the crotch down (see figure 2). If the length is incorrect for you, you can adjust your pattern along line 2. Check the seat rise (crotch depth) and adjust if necessary along line 1.

 

Skirt length

The skirt length is measured as shown in figure 2. Find the most flattering length and adjust the length at the hem of the skirt, or along line 3, depending on the design.

 

Bust and hip measurement

Bust and hip measurements are the most important measurements. The bust is measured at the widest point, with the arms hanging loosely at the side.

The hips are measured at the widest point, roughly 20 to 25 cm below the waist. To find the widest point, loosely run the tape measure up and down the widest part of the hip.

 

Selecting the right pattern size, an example:

If you are a size 48 at the chest and a size 52 at the hip, your jacket or dress will fit best if you choose a size 48 and add extra width to the hip section of the pattern. For jackets, we recommend adding extra width to the back and side seams only. For dresses, we recommend adding a little to all seams. 

Figure 2

1: Hip width

2: Leg width (upper leg and ankle)

3: Hip width

4: Length